Meriwether Lewis and William Clark,
Excerpts from their Journals
Excerpts from the Original Electronic Text at the web site of the American Studies Hypertexts Project at the University of Virginia
Long interested in the West and in finding the shortest passage between the Missouri River
and the Pacific Ocean, President Thomas Jefferson appointed his personal secretary, Meriwether
Lewis, to lead an expedition through Louisiana. In April 1803, diplomats signed the treaty with
France officially transferring Louisiana to the United States. In June 1803, as preparations
continued, Captain Lewis asked William Clark to join him as co-commander of the "Corps of
Discovery." They were to make maps, collect information on flora and fauna, and carry out
United States diplomacy with Native American tribes. The corps set out in a keelboat and two
pirogues across the Mississippi and up the Missouri River in May 1804. After wintering at Fort
Mandan, on the northern Plains, the corps moved west, crossed the Rockies, and reached the
Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean by November 1805. They began their return east the
following March, and arrived in St. Louis in September 1806. -mnv
Ordered.-A court-martial will sit this day at 11 o'clock,
to consist of five members, for the trial of John Collins and Hugh Hall, confined
on charges exhibited against them by Sergeant Floyd, agreeable to the Articles of War....
John Collins charged with getting drunk on his post this morning out of whiskey put
under his charge as sentinel, and for suffering Hugh Hall to draw whiskey out of the said
barrel intended for the
party.
To this charge the prisoner pleaded "not guilty."
The court, after mature deliberation on the evidence
adduced, &c., are of opinion the prisoner is guilty of the charge exhibited against him, and do
therefore sentence him to receive one hundred lashes on his bare back.
Hugh Hall was brought before the court charged with
taking whiskey out of a keg this morning, which whiskey was stored on the bank (and under the
charge of the guard), contrary to all order, rule, or regulation.
To this charge the prisoner pleaded guilty.
The court find the prisoner guilty and sentence him to receive
fifty lashes on his bare back.
Orderly Book, 29 June 1804
At sunset, Mr. Fairfong [Oto interpreter resident
with them] and a party of the Oto and Missouri Nations came to camp. Among those Indians, six
were chiefs (not the principal chiefs). Captain Lewis and myself met those Indians and
informed them we were glad to see them, and would speak to them tomorrow. Sent them some
roasted meat, pork, flour and meal. In return, they sent us watermelons. Every man on his guard
and ready for anything.
Captain Clark, 2 August 1804
Made up a small present for those people in proportion
to their consequence; also a package with a medal to accompany a speech for the grand chief.
After breakfast, we collected those Indians under an awning of our mainsail. In presence of our
party, paraded, and delivered a long speech to them, expressive of our journey, the wishes of our
government, some advice to them, and directions how they were to conduct themselves. The
principal chief for the nation being absent, we sent him the speech, flag, medal, and some clothes.
After hearing what they had to say, delivered a medal of second grade to one for the Otos and one
for the Missouris, and presented four medals of a third grade to the inferior chiefs-two for each
tribe. Those two parts of nations, Otos and Missouris, now residing together are about 250 men,
the Otos composing 2/3 and the Missouris 1/3 part.
Those chiefs all delivered a speech, acknowledging their
approbation to the speech and promising to pursue the advice and directions given them, that they
were happy to find that they had fathers which might be depended on, &c.
We gave them a canister of powder and a bottle of whiskey,
and delivered a few presents to the whole, after giving a breech cloth some paint, gartering, and a
medal to those we made chiefs. After Captain Lewis's shooting the air gun a few shots
(which astonished those natives), we set out, and proceeded on five miles, on a direct line past a
point on the S.S. and around a large sand bar on the L.S., and camped on the upper point. The
mosquitoes excessively troublesome this evening. Great appearance of wind and rain to the N.W.
We prepare to receive it. The man Liberte whom we sent for the Otos has not come up.
He left the Otos' town one day before the Indians. This man has either tired his horse, or lost
himself in the plains. Some Indians are to hunt for him.
Captain Clark, 3 August 1804
A fine morning. Wind from the S.E. The men sent to the
Maha town last evening have not returned. We conclude to send a spy to know the cause
of their delay. At about 12 o'clock, the party returned and informed us that they could not find the
Indians, nor any fresh sign. Those people have not returned from their buffalo hunt. Those people,
having no houses, no corn or anything more than the graves of their ancestors to attach them to
the old villager continue in pursuit of the buffalo longer than others who have greater attachments
to their native villages.
The ravages of the smallpox, which swept off-about four
years ago-400 men and women and children in proportion, reduced this nation not exceeding 300
men, and left them to the insults of their weaker neighbors, which before were glad to be on
friendly terms with them.
Captain Clark, 14 August 1804
A fine morning. Wind from the S.E. Prepared a small
present for the chiefs and warriors present. The main chief breakfasted with us and begged for a
sun glass. Those people are all naked, covered only with breechclouts, blankets, or buffalo
robes-the flesh side painted with different colors and figures. At ten o'clock we assembled the
chiefs and warriors, nine in number, under an awning, and Captain Lewis and I explained
the speech sent to the nation from the Council Bluffs by Mr. Faufon. The three
chiefs and all the men or warriors made short speeches approving the advice and council their
Great Father had sent them, and concluded by giving themselves some credit for their acts.
We then brought out the presents and exchanged The Big Horse's medal and gave him
one equal to the one sent to the Little Thief, and gave all some small articles and eight
carrots of tobacco. We gave one small medal to one of the chiefs and a certificate to the others, of
their good intentions. . . .
One of those Indians after receiving his certificate,
delivered it again to me-The Big Blue Eyes. The chief petitioned for the certificate again.
We would not give the certificate, but rebuked them very roughly for having in object goods and
not peace with their neighbors. This language they did not like at first, but at length all petitioned
for us to give back the certificate to The Big Blue Eyes. He came forward and made a
plausible excuse. I then gave the certificate to the great chief to bestow it to the most worthy.
They gave it to him. We then gave them a dram and broke up the council.
The chiefs requested we would not leave them this evening.
We determined to set out early in the morning. We showed them many curiosities, and the air
gun, which they were much astonished at. Those people begged much for whiskey. Sergeant
Floyd is taken very bad all at once with a bilious colic. We attempt to relieve him without success
as yet. He gets worse and we are much alarmed at his situation. All attention to him.
Captain Clark, 19 August 1804
Having for many days past confined myself to the boat, I
[Lewis] determined to devote this day to amusing myself on shore with my gun, and view the
interior of the country lying between the river and the Corvus Creek. Accordingly, before
sunrise, I set out with six of my best hunters, two of whom I dispatched to the lower side of
Corvus Creek, two with orders to hunt the bottoms and woodland on the river, while I
retained two others to accompany me in the intermediate country.
One quarter of a mile in rear of our camp, which was situated
in a fine open grove of cottonwood, passed a grove of plum trees, loaded with fruit and now ripe.
Observed but little difference between this fruit and that of a similar kind common to the Atlantic
states. The trees are smaller and more thickly set. This forest of plum trees garnish a plain about
20 feet more elevated than that on which we were encamped. . .
. . .A great number of wolves of the small kind, hawks and some polecats were to be seen. I presume that
those animals feed on this squirrel. Found the country in every direction, for about three miles,
intersected with deep ravines and steep irregular hills 100 to 200 feet high. At the tops of these
hills, the country breaks off as usual into a fine level plain extending as far as the eye can reach.
From this plain I had an extensive view of the river below, and the irregular hills which border the
opposite sides of the river and creek.
This scenery, already rich, pleasing, and beautiful, was still further heightened by
immense herds of buffalo, deer, elk, and antelopes, which we saw in every direction, feeding on
the hills and plains. I do not think I exaggerate when I estimate the number of buffalo which could
be comprehended at one view to amount to 3,000. My object was, if possible, to kill a female
antelope, having already procured a male. I pursued my route on this plain to the west, flanked by
my two hunters, until eight in the morning, when I made the signal for them to come to me, which
they did shortly after. . . .
We found the antelope extremely shy and watchful, insomuch
that we had been unable to get a shot at them. When at rest they generally select the most
elevated point in the neighborhood, and as they are watchful and extremely quick of sight, and
their sense of smelling very acute, it is almost impossible to approach them within gunshot. In
short, they will frequently discover, and flee from, you at the distance of three miles.
I had this day an opportunity of witnessing the agility and the superior fleetness of this animal
which was to me really astonishing. . .
So soon had these antelopes gained the distance at which
they had again appeared to my view, I doubted at first that they were the same that I had just
surprised, but my doubts soon vanished when I beheld the rapidity of their flight along the ridge
before me. It appeared rather the rapid flight of birds than the motion of quadrupeds. I think I can
safely venture the assertion that the speed of this animal is equal, if not superior, to that of the
finest blooded courser.
Captain Lewis, 17 September 1804
A fair morning. The wind from the S.E. All well. Raised
a flagstaff and made an awning or shade on a sand bar in the mouth of Teton River, for the
purpose of speaking with the Indians under. The boat crew on board at 70 yards distance from the
bar. The five Indians which we met last night continued. About 11 o'clock, the 1st and 2nd chiefs
came. We gave them some of our provisions to eat. They gave us great quantities of meat, some
of which was spoiled: We feel much at a loss for the want of an interpreter; the one we have can
speak but little.
Met in council at 12 o'clock and, after smoking-agreeable to
the usual custom-Captain Lewis proceeded to deliver a speech which we were obliged to curtail
for want of a good interpreter. All our party paraded. Gave a medal to the grand chief, called in
Indian Untongarsarbar, in French Boeuf Noir, Black Buffalo. Said to be a
good man. 2nd chief, Tortohongar or The Partisan-bad. The 3rd is the Boenf
de Médecine, his name is Tartongarwaker. 1st considerable man, Warzinggo.
2nd considerable man, Second Bear-Matocoquepar.
Invited those chiefs on board to show them our boat, and
such curiosities as were strange to them. We gave them 1/4 glass of whiskey, which they appeared
to be very fond of; sucked the bottle after it was out and soon began to be troublesome' one, the
second chief, assuming drunkenness as a cloak for his rascally intentions. I went with those chiefs,
in one of the pirogues with 5 men-3 and 2 Indians (which left the boat with great reluctance)-to
shore, with a view of reconciling those men to us.
As soon as I landed the pirogue, three of their young men
seized the cable of the pirogue [in which we had presents, &c.] The chiefs' soldier [each chief has
a soldier] hugged the mast, and the 2nd chief was very insolent, both in words and gestures
[pretended drunkenness and staggered up against me], declaring I should not go on, stating he
had not received presents sufficient from us. His gestures were of such a personal nature, I felt
myself compelled to draw my sword, and made a signal to the boat to prepare for action. At this
motion Captain Lewis ordered all under arms in the boat. Those with me also showed a
disposition to defend themselves and me. The grand chief then took hold of the rope and ordered
the young warriors away.
I felt myself warm and spoke in very positive terms.
Most of the warriors appeared to have their bows strung, and
took out their arrows from the quiver. As I, being surrounded, was not permitted by them to
return, I sent all the men except two interpreters to the boat. The pirogue soon returned with
about 12 of our determined men ready for any event. This movement caused a number of the
Indians to withdraw at a distance, leaving their chiefs and soldiers alone with me. Their treatment
to me was very rough and, I think, justified roughness on my part. They all left my pirogue, and
counciled with themselves. The result I could not learn, and nearly all went off after remaining in
this situation some time. I offered my hand to the 1st and 2nd chiefs, who refused to receive it. I
turned off and went with my men on board the pirogue. I had not proceeded more than ten paces
before the 1st chief, 3rd, and 2 Brave Men waded in after me. I took them in and went on
board.
We proceeded on about one mile, and anchored out off a
willow island. Placed a guard on shore to protect the cooks and a guard in the boat. Fastened the
pirogues to the boat. I called this island Bad Humored Island, as we were in a bad
humor.
Captain Clark, 25 September 1804
A fine morning. Wind from the S.E. At about 11 o'clock
the wind shifted to the N.W. We prepare all things ready to speak to the Indians. Mr.
Tabeau and Mr. Gravelines came to breakfast with us. The chiefs, &c., came from the
lower town, but none from the two upper towns, which are the largest. We continue to delay and
wait for them. At twelve o'clock, dispatched Gravelines to invite them to come down. We
have every reason to believe that a jealousy exists between the villages for fear of our making the
first chief of the lower village. At one o'clock, the chiefs all assembled, and after some little
ceremony, the council commenced. We informed them what we had told the others before, i.e.,
Otos and Sioux. Made three chiefs, one for each village. Gave them presents. After the council
was over, we shot the air gun, which astonished them much. They then departed, and we rested
secure all night. Those Indians were much astonished at my servant. They never saw a black man
before. All flocked around him and examined him from top to toe. He carried on the joke and
made himself more terrible than we wished him to do. Those Indians are not fond of spirits- liquor
of any kind.
Captain Clark, 10 October 1804
[In fall 1804, the Corps reached what is now North Dakota and built Fort Mandan, where they spent the winter. The Corps set off again the following spring. By June, reaching the point where the Missouri River forked with another river, the Corps was unsure which direction to go. After sending out exploring parties, the two captains decided on
the southern fork. The men, however, were convinced that the northern fork was the Missouri.
Lewis named this fork the Marias River.]
This morning early we passed over and formed a camp
on the point formed by the junction of two large rivers. An interesting question was now to be
determined: Which of these rivers was the Missouri, or that which the Minnetarees
call Amahte Arzzha, or Missouri, and which they had described to us as
approaching very near to the Columbia River. To mistake the stream at this period of the
season - - two months of the traveling season having now elapsed - - and to ascend such stream to
the Rocky Mountains or perhaps much farther before we could inform ourselves whether
it did approach the Columbia or not, and then be obliged to return and take the other
stream, would not only lose us the whole of this season but would probably so dishearten the
party that it might defeat the expedition altogether.
Convinced we were that the utmost circumspection and
caution was necessary in deciding on the stream to be taken. To this end, an investigation of both
streams was the first thing to be done--to learn their widths, depths, comparative rapidity of their
currents, and thence the comparative bodies of water furnished by each. Accordingly, we
dispatched two light canoes with three men in each up those streams. We also sent out several
small parties by land, with instructions to penetrate the country as far as they conveniently can,
permitting themselves to return this evening, and endeavor, if possible, to discover the distant
bearing of those rivers by ascending the rising grounds. . .
. . .We took the width of the two rivers, . . .found the left-hand or
S. fork 372 yards, and the N. fork 200. The north fork is deeper than the other, but its current not
so swift. Its waters run in the same boiling and rolling manner which has uniformly characterized
the Missouri throughout its whole course so far. Its waters are of a whitish brown color,
very thick and turbid, also characteristic of the Missouri, while the south fork is perfectly
transparent, runs very rapid, but with a smooth, unruffled surface, its bottom composed of round
and flat smooth stones like most rivers issuing from a mountainous country. The bed of the N.
fork composed of some gravel but principally mud.
In short, the air and character of this river is so precisely
that of the Missouri below that the party with very few exceptions have already
pronounced the N. fork to be the Missouri. Myself and Captain Clark, not quite so
precipitate have not yet decided, but if we were to give our opinions I believe we should be in the
minority. . .
Captain Lewis, 3 June 1805
[The captains eventually decided which direction to take.]
I [Lewis] endeavored to impress on the minds of the
party, all of whom, except Captain Clark, being still firm in the belief that the N. fork
was the Missouri and that which we ought to take. They said, very cheerfully, that they
were ready to follow us anywhere we thought proper to direct; but that they still thought that the
other was the river, and that they were afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the
mountains and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia.
Captain Lewis, 9 June 1805
[The captains were correct in their conjecture about the Missouri River. Five months
later, the Corps reached the Pacific.]
Encamped under a high hill on the starboard side,
opposite to a rock situated half a mile from the shore, about 50 feet high and 20 feet in diameter.
We with difficulty found a place clear of the tide and sufficiently large to lie on, and the only place
we could get was on round stones on which we laid our mats. Rain continued moderately all day,
and two Indians accompanied us from the last village. They were detected in stealing a knife and
returned. Our small canoe, which got separated in a fog this morning, joined us this evening from
a large island situated nearest the larboard side, below the high hills on that side, the river being
too wide to see either the form, shape, or size of the islands on the larboard side.
Great joy in camp. We are in view of the ocean, this great
Pacific Ocean which we have been so long anxious to see, and the roaring or noise made
by the waves breaking on the rocky shores (as I suppose) may be heard distinctly.
Captain Clark, 7 November 1805
[On their journey home, Lewis and Clark divided the Corps to do some further
exploration, planning to rendezvous in one month at the Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers. In late July, Lewis
was on the Marias River when his men met a party of Blackfeet Indians. This encounter took a violent turn, with the result that one member of the Corps stabbed and killed a member of the Blackfeet party. Lewis and his companions then made straight for their rendezvous hardly stopping to rest. En route, a member of the party accidently shot Lewis in the thigh while hunting. On August 12, the following day, Lewis arrived at Clark's camp, and the Corps pushed on. Coming down the Missouri, they met other
Americans.]
At 11 A.M., we met a Captain McClallan, late a
Captain of Artillery of the U. States Army, ascending in a large boat. This gentleman, an
acquaintance of my friend Captain Lewis, was somewhat astonished to see us return and
appeared rejoiced to meet us. We found him a man of information and from him we received a
partial account of the political state of our country. We were making inquiries and exchanging
answers, &c., until near midnight.
This gentleman informed us that we had been long since given
up by the people of the U.S. generally, and almost forgotten. The President of the U.
States had yet hopes of us. We received some civilities of Captain McClallan. He
gave us some biscuit, chocolate, sugar, and whiskey, for which our party were in want, and for
which we made a return of a barrel of corn and much obliged to him.
Captain Clark, 17 September 1806
We rose early. Took the chief to the public store and
furnished him with some clothes, &c. Took an early breakfast with Colonel Hunt and set
out. Descended to the Mississippi and down that river to St. Louis, at which place
we arrived about 12 o'clock. We suffered the party to fire off their pieces as a salute to the town.
We were met by all the village and received a hearty welcome from its inhabitants. . .
Captain Clark, 23 September 1806